I am sad to be leaving the Bay area.
Although I first visited it more than forty years ago, it is only in
the past couple of years that I have begun to really understand why,
for so many people, it is a very special part of the world.
It is handy that the BART yellow line
takes me from Moraga directly to the airport, a trip that takes
almost exactly an hour.
Unusually for Air New Zealand, the
check in is a shambles, with a problem at the single Business-Class
check in desk causing delays for premium passengers. It doesn't help
that the same line is being used for Premium Economy.
If that was unsatisfactory, the VIP
lounge is a disgrace. With only one flight a day, Air New Zealand has
a contract to use the Eva Air facilities. But, more than ninety
minutes before boarding, the food has all gone, with not even a
peanut or crisp available. People are drinking wine and beer out of
coffee cups and my gin and tonic, without a slice of lemon, is in a
wine glass. The place is packed with hardly a seat available, nobody
is tidying up used crockery and the wi-fi is impossibly slow.
When Diane, the on-board Concierge
arrives to greet her overnight passengers, she has a queue of people
wanting to see her. She agrees that the situation is less than
satisfactory and will put it in her report.
On board, I am disappointed that the
jumbo-jet upper-deck has a very strange configuration of 10
Business-Class and 23 Premium-Economy seats, with no separation
between the two. There are only two toilets for everyone, which is
far less than you would expect. I get the impression that a lot of
little Business Class touches in the facilities have been removed.
But the seat (only Air NZ and Virgin
use them), the food and the service is the best I think you can get
and I sleep solidly in my full-length bed for well over seven hours.
Disembarkation is slow, because there
is no way for Business Class to be taken off before Premium Economy.
So, lesson learned. The Upper Deck in
Air New Zealand's two 747's is much less satisfactory than the
splendid configuration in the front cabin of their five Boeing
777-300ER's.
I left San Francisco on Friday evening,
but it's now early on Sunday morning. Last year, flying in the
opposite direction, I had a Saturday in New Zealand and another one
in Los Angeles, so I suppose it has evened itself out. But it still
feels weird that, having flown for only 13 hours, Saturday has
simply vanished from my life.
International transfer at Auckland is
very speedy, although I am surprised of the need to have another
security check.
The Koru Lounge in Air New Zealand's
Auckland International terminal is splendid, with a barista making
all sorts of fresh coffee, another member of staff making light
fluffy pancakes and there is as good a selection of breakfast fare as
you will find anywhere.
But, more importantly, a really nice
modern and spacious shower facility which gives me the opportunity to
freshen up after the long Trans-Pacific flight.
Being the only 'Works-Deluxe' passenger
on board my connecting flight, I have the first two rows of the
Airbus to myself, so can sit on the right-hand side as folk are
boarding, so they won't tread on my toes, moving to the left hand of
the aircraft just before take off. Just before landing on Norfolk
Island after the 90 minute flight, the pilot tells us that the best
views will be had from the other side, so I move back again!
Just like last year, the local baggage
handlers have no concept about unloading priority-tagged luggage
first, so one of my bags is virtually the last off the plane.
Luckily, the customs and immigration line moves quickly and within
twenty minutes of landing, I am being greeted by my host for the
week, Mike Collings.
Mike, who I first met on Lord Howe
Island, is the boss at the Island's Bureau of Meteorology. He is
working later in the afternoon, but there is plenty of time to have a
splendid lunch and spend some time down at the wonderful Emily Beach
where I swim and he walks, saying that it is FAR too cold at this
time of year.
The island is every bit as wonderful as
I had remembered. I was slightly apprehensive that a second visit
would perhaps be a bit of a disappointment, but not at all. This five
by eight km. drop in the vast south Pacific Ocean is an absolute
delight. Nobody locks their cars or homes, the pace of life is so
laid back it is almost horizontal and the island abound with
wonderful fresh produce. Except potatoes. They have run out until the
next supply ship arrives later this week.
Adan and Ruby, Chris and Sorrell's
children from next door, arrive to invite Mike and I round for
drinks, but, with Mike working, I am the only acceptance.
We are joined by Don, who teaches
Science at the 300-pupil Island School and his wife, Sue. The kids
are about to have a day off school for ANZAC day (having been back
after the holidays for just one day), so I explain to nine year old
Ruby what the acronym means. The parents soon put me right after I
confuse the tripartite ANZUK force of the early 1970's with the
abbreviated form of the Australia and New Zealand Army Corps of the
Gallipoli Landings of World War 1.
Despite excellent food, wine and
company, my jet-lag means that I struggle to stay awake. Adan wants
to 'verse' me at ping pong, which turns out to be an Aussie word for
challenge. He's improved a lot in the past twelve months and races
into a 10 point lead before I find my game and manage to secure a
narrow victory. But I fear my winning days against him will not last
for much longer.
At 2130, I collapse into bed and am
rocking the rafters almost before my head hits the proverbial pillow.
It doesn't take long to settle into the
island pace of life. I had intended to potter and, my word, this
place is conducive for it. The REO Cafe in Kingston for coffee, the
Golden Orb in Burnt Pines for lunch, Emily Bay for a swim. It really
is a tough life on Norfolk Island. Mike later shows me the amazing web of
a Golden Orb spider, with the large female in the centre and the
much smaller male playing a bit part.
ANZAC Day is marked with a daybreak
service. Hence, at 0540, Mike and I join about a third of the
Island's 1100 population at the war memorial in Kingston. With the
waves crashing against the nearby shore, the pitch-black area lit
only the flickering flames of a small fire and the occasional flash
of a torch, it is a very poignant ceremony as the Last Post is
sounded. I am surprised that it all ends with a lusty rendition of
God Save the Queen rather than Advance Australia Fair or some-such,
but am reminded that the ANZAC contingent were all part of Her
Majesty's Forces.
I return later for the mid-morning
service, but it has nothing like the pathos of the earlier event.
Photos at: https://picasaweb.google.com/113030621059953130627/AroundTheWorldIn60DaysBackwardsAustraliaAndTheFarEastToTheUK?authuser=0&feat=directlink
Photos at: https://picasaweb.google.com/113030621059953130627/AroundTheWorldIn60DaysBackwardsAustraliaAndTheFarEastToTheUK?authuser=0&feat=directlink
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