Changi has to be one of the best
organised Airports in the world. Check in is very well organised,
there are always plenty of baggage trolleys available, the lounges
are great, immigration is quick and efficient and there is plenty of
space in which to shop and relax.
Even the lounge for the A380 is
great. I expect boarding this giant of the skies to be a pain, but
the air bridges are so well organised that I find myself delivered to
the upper deck business class area through a dedicated walkway almost
without realising I have boarded the aircraft.
I've come on board early to have look
around, but I'm disappointed that the wide stairs to the downstairs
suites area is closed off and will remain so throughout the flight. I
ask nicely to be allowed to look before other passengers board, but
the senior male cabin crew member is adamant that the other parts of
the aircraft are off limits.
I am surprised that there is no leaflet
about how the seat operates. There are so many buttons and switches
that, even as an experienced traveller, I have to seek assistance.
Not once, but several times.
As always, Singapore Airlines service
is first class, the food is excellent and the staff are friendly,
efficient and willing. I am not hugely impressed with the sleeping
arrangements. While it's a fully flat bed, you lie diagonally across
your space, with a less than robust flap connecting the final section
to the ottoman. On several occasions, I have to pull it back up, my
feet having disappeared into the void below.
But I sleep and breakfast well and
almost before I know it am in Zurich.
After a shower, I enjoy the best
croissants ever in the business class lounge before catching my
connecting flight to Geneva.
In the baggage hall, I collect my free
train/bus ticket into the centre (what a brilliant idea!) and am met
by my old Navy chum, Michael Goldthorpe who points out the thin red
line that has replaced a barrier. The disciplined Swiss stand
obediently behind the illuminated line waiting for arriving
passengers. Another brilliant idea!
Michael and I take a train to the
centre, connecting almost immediately to a bus which stops almost
outside their front door. The Swiss really do have public transport
sorted.
Michael's wife Sally is in Singapore,
so we have a couple of days together looking around the local area,
popping across the border into France, doing shopping, venturing up
Mont Saleve for a superb view over Geneva and visiting the town of
Annecy for lunch. It's a local bank holiday, the place is packed and
it takes a while before we find a place to park.
But it's worth the wait, Annecy is
charming and we enjoy a splendid lunch which includes the tasty local
Savoyard dish, Tartiflette, made from cheese, potatoes, lardons and
onions.
I use my Swiss Travel Flexipass to go
to Lugano, some five and a half hours distant. The train
announcements start off in French, move to German as we approach
Zurich and change to Italian as we head south. Strange, this
multilingual Switzerland. The section through the Gottard pass has to
be one of the most wonderfully scenic rail journeys in the world.
Lake Lugano is a delight. My pass even
allows me to travel on the private metre-gauge splendidly maintained
FLP railway to the border town of Ponte Tresa. There, I walk into
Italy, have dinner and buy a bottle of Sicilian wine. As you do. I am
thrilled with the photographs I have taken, including some splendid
panoramas of Lake Lugano with my new camera.
My flexi pass allows me to travel on
the funicular railway from Lugano Railway station to the town centre,
where I meet my Serbian friend Alexsandar, last met on a plane in
Washington. He's busy with exams, so we only have time for a hugely
expensive coffee and orange juice in the main square before I set off
on an hour-long tour of the delightful lake. My flexipass is valid
for this trip too!
I enjoy the five and a half hour trip
back to Geneva, travelling in the private business class section of
the extremely comfortable Pendolino tilting train, ideally suited to
the endless curves of Swiss railways.
While waiting for the number 8 bus at
Geneva Station, a man asks me to help him operate the ticket machine.
In a flash my man-bag is gone. Ipad, iPod, two cameras, passport,
Swiss FlexiPass, wallet and all the detritus of a traveller. Plus the
keys to Michael and Sally's apartment. They are in the UK for the
night at a dinner. Major crisis. I am in a daze as a kindly woman
lets me try to call and text Sally. Back at the apartment, a kindly
neighbour lends me some cash and takes me to the police station.
There, I go through the palaver of making a statement, hardly
reassured by the friendly and helpful female cops telling me that
they see several people a day for this sort of thing. The whole thing
conducted in French of course. They say that it's possible that my
bag will be found, minus anything valuable, but probably still with
passport and credit cards intact. But the lost property office
doesn't open till Monday morning.
Back at the apartment block, another
kindly neighbour not only sits up till 0130am with me while I cancel
my lost cards, make contact with the UK passport authorities and so
on. We continually try and contact my hosts, but when it becomes
clear I am not going to get into the apartment tonight, kindly offers
me a bed for the night. I have my overnight bag from my trip, but no
clean clothes for the morning.
The following day, I finally make
contact with my hosts in the early afternoon and their Bolivian
housekeeper very kindly breaks off a lunch in France to come and let
me in to the house.
But I discover at the station that my
Swiss flexipass can't be replaced and while the Swiss authorities
will be happy to accept other photo id in lieu of my missing passport
allowing me to travel back to the UK on Tuesday, the British
authorities won't. So my final day of 'Around the World in 60 days –
Backwards' will be spent travelling to the British Embassy in Berne
to get an emergency passport.
It's not the first time I have been
robbed while travelling and I daresay it will not be the last. But I
feel absolutely desolate and empty. I am devastated by the loss of my
carefully crafted photographs taken on my week-old camera. The rest
of the things can be replaced, but not them.
I have replayed the moment of the loss
again and again. If only I hadn't been distracted to help. If only I
had done my normal thing and had the bag around my neck. If only I
had been aware that laid-back, classy Geneva has a dreadful
reputation for this happening.
If only.
Photos at:
The very best of 'Around the World - Backwards' |
Commiserations on your robbery. My wife had her purse stolen in Florence, several years ago, so we know how you must feel. Keep your spirit's up.
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