Sydney International Airport has a very
well signposted 'Pick Up' area, so I follow the bright yellow signs
where, within moments, my hostess for my stay arrives in her car.
Well not actually her car which has blown a cylinder head gasket or
some-such, so she's had to press a family member into action.
I am using www.roomorama.com for the
accommodation on this leg of the journey. It's a site which lists
properties which have a spare room or two available. Hence I have
discovered Liz Kean, whose house in the Sydney inner-west suburbs is
only a quarter of an hour or so from the airport.
For a charge of just $20 Australian, I am met and transported direct to the house. For $85, I get a nice room in a family home, a smashing breakfast and, as it turns out, three sensational evening meals.
For a charge of just $20 Australian, I am met and transported direct to the house. For $85, I get a nice room in a family home, a smashing breakfast and, as it turns out, three sensational evening meals.
Liz was, like me, brought up outside
Glasgow and despite being in Sydney with her English partner Nick for
many years, hasn't lost much of her accent.
The house is only ten minutes walk from
Dulwich Hill railway station on the Bankstown Line. There, a very
friendly member of staff sells me a $21 ticket which gives me
unlimited travel on Sydney's trains, trams, buses and ferries for a
day. There's an even better value $60 weekly ticket.
I have been to Sydney on a couple of
previous occasions, so I have done most of the main sites. But the
lure of Circular Quay, the Opera House and the Harbour Bridge is huge
and the double-decker train delivers me there in under 25 minutes.
I have never had the time before to
visit the Royal Botanic Gardens, which is a pity, because it turns
out to be a delight. Tucked into the space between the Opera House,
the Garden Island Navy base and the Central Business District, I find
it easy to spend several hours exploring the varied flora and fauna
in this lovely space.
Mrs. Macquaries Chair in the Sydney
Domain, just beside the park, provides an excellent view of the
iconic Harbour Bridge and the Opera House, much loved as a photo
opportunity by tourists and Japanese newly-weds alike. However,
taking an afternoon ferry a couple of stops towards Darling Harbour
and getting off after a couple of stops at McMahons Point is, to my
mind, a much better option. No crowds and one of the most wonderful
harbour views in the world.
The ceramic tiles on the Opera House are
currently being painstakingly removed to replace the waterproof
membrane underneath; I am staggered to learn that eight million
people a year visit the attraction.
Possibly the most popular ferry trip in
Sydney is the 30-minute journey to Manly. Dread-locked and tattooed
surfers flock to the Pacific Beach to enjoy their sport off a beach
which is so much nicer than the dreadfully over-commercialised and
tacky Bondi. I am impressed with the drinking stations; water
fountains are available everywhere in Sydney.
The Aussies are much
more sensible about dealing with the sun than we Brits; they drink
lots of water and always wear sun-hats. You never ever see a school
child without one, they are a compulsory part of the uniform.
Manly is geared up for the tourist
hordes and is not really my cup of tea. Much more so is the Eastern
Suburbs service, where you can reach posh places such as Watsons Bay.
That area first came to my attention in my Naval Reserve days as the
place where, in 2002, we floated the crippled HMS Nottingham onto the
Dutch heavy-lift ship Swan for the 6-week journey back to the UK for
repair after she tried to sink Lord Howe Island.
The same ferry takes you to the
Australian Navy base at Garden Island, where there's now a great
Heritage Centre.
Confident that I have won a major slice
of the $50 million Oz Lotto, I head to Town Hall station to engage in
some retail therapy. It is very easy to spend this or any other
fortune in the area around Pitt, Park and George Streets in the
shadow of the Centrepoint Tower.
The architecture of the two-storey
glass and stainless steel Apple Store is simply stunning; I am told
that the exterior panes of glass are the biggest in the world. In
Lowes, I am served by an Irish girl from Limerick, one of a huge
number of Europeans I have encountered working here.
One surprise since I was last here is
the increase in the number of Asians living and working here; at
times I have been with more Chinese, Vietnamese and Koreans than folk
from other parts of this increasingly multicultural planet in which
we live.
Sydney's Central Station opened in 1906
and is well worth a visit just to see the architecture. I discover a
bonus in the exhibition to mark the 50th anniversary of
the luxury Southern Aurora train service. But, much as rail travel
interests me, the eye-watering price of nearly $2000 for a
three-night journey to Melbourne and back on the Heritage Express
recreation of the Southern Aurora service is one offer I will not be
taking up!
At home, Nick and Liz's daughters
Isabel and Kirsty arrive in time to enjoy some of Liz's quality
catering, which even includes Apple Crumble and custard in my honour.
But this is custard with real vanilla and a crumble which includes
fresh ginger. It's no wonder the plates are cleared!
My hosts have been concerned that three
days is not enough time to 'do' Sydney. It's true, but, to me, it is
the perfect length to remind me what a truly lovely part of the world
this is.
I wonder if Sydneysiders realise just
how lucky they are?
This afternoon I will take a short
Jetstar flight to Melbourne. It's the one sector of my trip for which
I won't have the luxury of my 69 kilo, 3 bag, business class
allowance. The $76 Jetstar ticket gives me no luggage at all, so I
have booked and paid another $40 for 40 kilos; I hope it is enough!
Photos at: https://picasaweb.google.com/113030621059953130627/AroundTheWorldIn60DaysBackwardsAustraliaAndTheFarEastToTheUK?authuser=0&feat=directlink
Photos at: https://picasaweb.google.com/113030621059953130627/AroundTheWorldIn60DaysBackwardsAustraliaAndTheFarEastToTheUK?authuser=0&feat=directlink
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